If somebody asks me where to go for a pint in Southport, The Hesketh Arms is the answer. Not because it is the only good pub in town. But because it is the one I would take you to if I wanted you to understand what a proper north of England pub actually feels like.
Where it is
The Hesketh Arms is on Churchtown's Botanic Road, at the edge of Churchtown village. PR9 7NG is the postcode. Parking on the surrounding streets is straightforward outside of peak weekend lunchtimes. The Botanic Gardens are directly opposite, which means a drink at the Hesketh followed by a walk around the gardens is one of the better Sunday afternoon combinations in Southport.
What the pub is actually like
Low ceilings. Dark wood. Framed local prints on the walls. A proper bar rather than a counter with a coffee machine on it. Real ale on handpump. The atmosphere is warmly lit and unhurried in a way that modern pub refurbishments tend to destroy. The Hesketh has not been touched in the ways that ruin pubs.
It is busy on weekend lunchtimes. On a Tuesday evening it is quiet in exactly the right way. I have been going since my kids were small enough to sit still for a Sunday roast without incident. It remains the pub I return to most reliably.
The food
Solid pub food done properly. The roast on Sundays is the thing: well-sourced beef, proper gravy, Yorkshire that holds together. It is the sort of Sunday lunch that justifies the walk across Churchtown to get there. Book ahead at weekends. I have made the mistake of not booking twice. The staff are polite about it but the dining room is full.
The rest of the menu is reliable traditional pub food. Nothing experimental, nothing pretentious. If you want a decent burger, a pie, or something that will sit properly after a long walk, it delivers.
Frank's verdict
Frank the bulldog has been to the Hesketh Arms on several occasions. The beer garden is large and flat, which suits him. The staff have never once been awkward about a dog who takes up more space than a small child and occasionally makes a noise. He considers it one of the better pubs on his rotation, which I think counts for something.
🐾Dogs are welcome at the Hesketh Arms. Beer garden access is good. Worth checking ahead if you have a particularly large or exuberant animal.
When to go
Sunday lunch is the main event, but the midweek evening version of the Hesketh is underrated. Quieter, no need to book, and the bar is properly unhurried. Early autumn evenings when it is not yet cold enough to need a fire but cool enough to make an ale feel right. That is when the Hesketh is at its best.
Churchtown while you are there
The Hesketh Arms sits in one of the most historically interesting parts of Southport. Churchtown is the old village that predates the modern town by centuries. The Botanic Gardens opposite are free to enter and worth an hour. The surrounding streets have a different character from the Lord Street end of town. If you have not spent time in Churchtown, the Hesketh is a good reason to start.
Churchtown village and the Botanic Gardens: a guide to Southport's historic northern quarter.
Churchtown Village GuideTerry
Chief Editor, SouthportGuide.co.uk. Lives in Churchtown with his wife,
four kids, and Frank the bulldog.
